Buy & Hold: Haute Horology

Not all luxury watches are haute horology (horlogerie in French). Nor do watches (also referred to as complications) have to be highly complicated to be considered haute horology. So what defines haute horology and, what makes it collectible? In 2017, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH; founded in 2005 in Switzerland to maintain and preserve the tradition of haute horlogerie), issued a “White Paper on Fine Watch Making” that established a set of rules to help define haute horology and identify fine watchmaking brands. Consider the following when investing in your next timepiece.

Five Factors Influencing Whether or Not a Watch is Haute Horology

Legacy. The heritage and history of the company and the brand. In the case of younger, emerging independent brands, legacy revolves around the innovative concepts employed.
In-House Movements. Whether or not, and to what degree, the brand makes its own movements in house, and how complicated those movements are. Typically, the finest and most difficult work in watchmaking are considered haute horlogerie, including astronomical complications (equation of time, precise moon phases, etc.), tourbillons, repeaters and sonneries, perpetual calendars, chronograph rattrapantes, and grand complications, among others.
Finishing. Finishing refers to the work that goes into nearly every component inside the watch – whether or not it is visible. Finishes include angling, perlage, guilloche and much more — all of which requires dozens of hours of hand craftsmanship. Essentially, no watch is deemed haute horology without extensive hand finishing.
The Art of Fine Watchmaking. Generally, to be haute horology, the brand should use at least one, if not more, of the arts of fine watchmaking– engraving, enameling, gem setting, etc.
Craftsmanship & Quality. Generally, for a watch to be considered haute horology, it is hand crafted with the utmost attention to every detail inside and out; hand-finished and hand-assembled.

Herewith, haute horology and modern complications for your collection

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