Tasting Menu: The Wines of Velenosi
Graphic: Piccolo Modificatore Laborioso
Velenosi Family Wines is located in Ascoli Piceno, the southern-most town in Le Marche region of central Italy. While Le Marche may not be as well-known as other winemaking regions in Italy, it is a true gem not to be overlooked by serious oenophiles and, Velenosi is one of its top producers of award winning wines. A little background from their website:
“Cantina Velenosi was established in 1984, with the purpose of reaching harmony between taste and colour. Combining artisan tradition and modern technology, Ercole and Angela Velenosi, with Paolo Garbini from 2005, have creatively re-interpreted the wine-making process and established a company which today spreads worldwide the scents and colours of the Piceno territory through its unique wines.”
Indeed, Velenosi has built an exceptional portfolio of wines that truly reflect the landscape and diverse terroir of Le Marche, the nuances of which capture the fullest expression of the region in each vintage. In a landscape similar to that of neighboring Tuscany to the west, one can taste the influences of the Adriatic in the east, encompassing hills and mountain ranges (over 90% of the region), the altitude of well-established vines, and the sediment of stratified clay soil, mixed with limestone and sand. This means the vines develop long deep roots, given by stony soils that convey thermal minerality and slow maceration of grapes. Last month, we had the pleasure to meet representatives from Velenosi over lunch and sample some of the wines. Hosted by Constance Chamberlain of Wine & Co, and led by Marco Germani, export manager, and Laura Donadoni, brand ambassador, the wines were expertly paired with small plates at La Pecora Bianca NYC. It should be noted that while the wine pairings were complemented by tasty Italian dishes, they are versatile enough to complement any cuisine, or even to be enjoyed alone. Below, a few tasting notes of Velenosi wines that should not be missed, and all of which share four trademarks: rich bouquet, richness of taste, complexity, and great value for the quality.
The Whites
PASSERINA BRUT, NV
EYE: Straw yellow with refined effervescence.
NOSE: Aromas of orange, acacia and white flowers; hint of salinity.
MOUTH: Dry, mineral with high acidity; very crisp, refreshing lively citrus peel notes.
The grape is Passerina, an indigenous Le Marche varietal. First bottled in 2007, the grapes for Passerina Brut grow in vineyards at an average altitude of 200-300 meters above-sea-level in somewhat sandy soil. They are hand-harvested and aged on the lees for roughly 90 days. Because of Passerina’s high acidity, the Charmat method follows the second fermentation, which takes place in a pressurized tank, rather than in a bottle, decreasing lees contact and producing larger, coarser bubbles. The full fermentation process produces a particularly refined sparkling fine wine that is very approachable. An ideal aperitivo, but also easy to pair and enjoy with finger foods, cheeses, and shellfish or seafood in particular. Generally not fond of Champagne (sugar headache!) and sparkling wines but the dryness and minerality makes Passerina Brut quite exceptional.
VERDICCHIO DEI CASTELLI DI JESI DOC CLASSICO QUERCIANTICA 2018
EYE: Bright straw yellow with greenish hues.
NOSE: Intensely floral with notes of aromatic herbs: thyme, fennel, lavender, etc.
MOUTH: Balanced and full bodied with vegetal hints of slightly bitter field greens, lovely notes of green almond.
The grape is Verdicchio, one of Italy’s noble white grapes that has good aging potential. Grown approximately 100 meters above-sea-level in somewhat sandy soil the grapes are hand harvested when slightly over ripe. After soft pressing, the must is channelled into cooling containers for static decanting, then transferred into steel tanks and further vinified at controlled temperatures to preserve the aromas. Good salinity is given by the influence of sea breezes off the Adriatic, which lends well to bottle aging. With lengthy cellaring (say, 15-20 years) one can expect pronounced tertiary aromas with further development of coastal flavors and complexity. This wine is an ideal accompaniment for seafood, organ meats (think sweet breads, seared foie gras) and vegetables.
PECORINO OFFIDA DOCG Villa Angela 2018
EYE: Straw colored with golden hues.
NOSE: Coniferous aromas of pine, with herbal notes of sage, thyme, a bit of fennel; floral notes of daffodil and yellow daisies.
MOUTH: Great structure with pleasing fruity notes of orange, lemon and tropical notes of pineapple with a smooth, long finish. The presence of tartaric acid lends alpine minerality.
The grape is Pecorino, selected at 300-500 meters above-sea-level from hillside vineyards located in Ascoli Piceno and Offida. Pecorino is a sweet grape, but in La Marche region it has more balanced flavors compared to the Pecorino grown in other Italian wine regions. Fermentation happens in small steel tanks to best preserve the aromas. The must begins fermentation with native wild yeast, and when it reaches 4-5% ABV, additional select yeasts are added. When fermenting is complete, the wine is let to stay in vats at approx. 10°C for five months with several bâtonnages to enhance the wine’s creamy texture. This is evident in its great structure and freshness. Pecorina Offida is a wine best enjoyed while young and fresh, so aging should be within four years or less. Ideal food pairings include seafood, fatty fish, soft cheeses, grilled vegetables, and herb forward dishes.
The Reds
QUERCIANTICA LACRIMA DOC 2018
EYE: Deep violet with crimson hues.
NOSE: Intense notes of white pepper and conifers with a floral bouquet of purple iris, turkish rose and violet; faint hint of smoke.
MOUTH: Powerful entry yet with velvety tannins; incredibly complex: floral, herbaceous, piquant and perfectly balanced with the olfactive notes.
The grape is Lacrima di Morro d’Alba (a semi-aromatic varietal that only grows in Le Marche) from the winery’s own vineyards located about 100-150 meters above-sea-level in the municipality of San Marcello, Ancona. The soil type is mainly clay. Harvested mid-September, the grapes are vinified in steel vats with maceration on the skins taking approximately 20 days with daily pump-overs that help preserve the floral scents particular to this wine. The complexity on the palate is a stunning example of the particular nuances of Le Marche’s terroir. Velenosi was the first producer to bottle 100% Lacrima, as typically the musts were used for blending with Montepulciano and Sangiovese wines. The yields to produce the Querciantica Lacrima are quite low (approximately 100k cases/year) so when available, it’s well worth considering to cellar a few bottles as the body and full mouth feel lend well to great aging potential. One imagines the nose and mouth would become even more refined and exceptionally complex with age. Endless food pairing options include among others: spicy foods, Asian cuisines (Chinese, Thai, Indian), barbeque, and tomato-based dishes. Truly outstanding.
ROSSO PICENO ROGGIO DEL FILARE
EYE: Garnet with ruby hues.
NOSE: Notes of berries and dark-skin stone fruits: plum, black cherry; hints of warming spices, tobacco, leather, coffee.
MOUTH: Full-bodied with abundant fruit and balanced tannins. Lingering finish with hints of spice, black pepper, clove, vanilla, cinnamon.
The grapes are a blend of 70% Montepulciano, 30% Sangiovese. They are from the winery’s own vineyards located 200 meters above-sea-level in the municipalities of Offida and Ascoli Piceno. The soil is predominantly clay with a bit of limestone and harvesting takes place mid-October. The grapes macerate 28 days on skins in steel vats, after which fermentation finishes in new French oak barrels where the wine ages about 18 months – just enough time for the open pores of the wood to impart well integrated notes of vanilla and cinnamon. This is a hallmark wine of Le Marche and Velenosi, with the Montepulciano grapes giving the strength, fruit and power of the tertiary aromas, while Sangiovese lends the elegance, acidity and complexity. In an annual ranking by one of Italy’s top financial newspapers, Il Sole 24 Ore, of the 100 best Italian wines (Sassicaia placing predictably in first place) Roggio Del Filare ranked number six! Undoubtedly then, it should be on your short list of Italy’s top 10. For the consumer, the price point of this wine is an incredible value when considered in a league of the top wines hailing from Italy’s more well-known regions. What is most agreeable is that on release, the wine can be easily enjoyed now, young and fresh, but it also has aging potential that is not-so-obvious in comparison to classic, cellared Italian wines—think Barolo, Barbaresco—perhaps due in part to vines that are >50 years, which produce deep, intense, complex flavors in the fruit.
VISCIOLE
EYE: Deep, opaque ruby.
NOSE: Notes of dried plum, raisin, hints of fig, cherry molasses.
MOUTH: Viscous and sweet with the balanced acidity one expects to find in a dessert wine of fine quality.
The grape is Montepulciano, yet the star ingredient is an ancient variety of wild cherry known as “visciola” (Prunus cerasus; deep red colour, sour taste). With pronounced notes of cherry and wild berries, this is a wine Le Marche winemakers traditionally take from private reserves and serve to family, friends and special guests. Production methods and recipes vary significantly from one winery to another but based on the traditional recipe, sour cherries are harvested when ripe, left to soak in sugar, partly whole and partly smashed. Fermentation turns the juice to a delicate, aromatic syrup that’s later filtered and added to the Montepulciano wine starting a second fermentation and stopped when it reaches 14% ABV. The final product is an aromatic dessert wine with great finesse. Lovely on its own, or with an after dinner cheese tray.
You can source these and other Velenosi wines from fine wine retailers and distributors. You can also learn more about the winemakers, and browse their full portfolio of wines at www.velenosivini.com.
— Christina Spearman